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| Preventative Maintenance |
When replacing a radiator, the width, height and thickness of the old and new units should be fairly close but may not always be an exact match because of consolidation (especially if you’re replacing an aluminum radiator with one made of copper/brass or vice versa). Even so, the cooling capacity of the replacement should be the same or greater than the original.
When bolting the radiator in place, check for misalignment between the mounting brackets and radiator support. Misalignment can cause stress that may lead to fatigue cracking and radiator failure.
Whenever a radiator is replaced, hoses should be checked and the entire system flushed and refilled. It also is important to check the radiator mounts to assure they are okay. At the same time, inspect the condition of all belts and hoses. After four years of service, the incidence of failure goes up dramatically. So if these parts have not been replaced, recommend new belts and hoses for preventative maintenance. Also, make sure hoses are properly positioned and supported to minimize stress on the radiator connections.
Make sure you replace the fan shroud or any other ducting that was originally on the vehicle. Leaving off a fan shroud can significantly reduce the radiator’s ability to cool the engine at low speeds when most of the airflow is generated by the fan.
One item that’s often overlooked when replacing a radiator is the radiator cap. The cap holds pressure in the system, which actually raises the boiling temperature of the coolant. Pressurization also prevents the formation of steam bubbles inside the engine, which improves cooling efficiency. Cap pressures can range from 4 lbs. to 18 lbs. The replacement cap must have the correct rating for the application because too little pressure can allow coolant loss and overheating, while too much pressure may damage the radiator or water pump seals. Radiator caps can be pressure tested to check their condition. If a cap can’t hold the rated pressure for two minutes, it should be replaced. |
| Common Cooling System Problems |
Excessive heat can be another cause of radiator failure. Radiators with plastic end tanks are very vulnerable to steam erosion. If the coolant level is low and the engine starts to run hot, steam can erode and melt a hole right through an end tank. White deposits on the inside of the plastic are evidence that hot steam rather than coolant was flowing into the tank. If you find this kind of damage, check the thermostat and pressure test the system for leaks after the radiator has been repaired or replaced.
Splits in radiator seams or between the tubes and header may be the result of too much pressure in the cooling system. This may be caused by using a pressure cap with the wrong rating (a 15-lb. cap on a system that’s rated at 5 lbs.), or by combustion chamber leaks that allow exhaust to enter the cooling system. Pressure testing the cooling system will tell you if there are any internal coolant leaks, and pressure testing the cap will tell you if it has the correct rating.
A leaky heater core will drip coolant and leave a wet carpet on the passenger side and/or blow steam out of the defroster/heater ducts. Although more likely to become clogged ( in which case a flushing of the heater core assembly will usually solve this problem ) than ruptured, any leaks in the cooling system will significantly decrease it's performance. |
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